25 June to 2 July 

Pelion, Meteora and Lefkas 

Strangest Experience
The erratic weather and hot temperatures culminating in some terrifying fires.  

Top three
Greek hospitality
Greek beaches
Greece, one of our main motivations for coming on this trip!!  

Stats Total miles 4,111  

21 June to 25 June 

Skiathos - Heading back westwards 

We arrived in Skiathos and headed for the campsite at Koukounaries beach - the only campsite open on the island. It was very green, lush and pretty much deserted.  We were amazed to discover that it was the most expensive campsite we had stayed in so far and the owner was not interested in any kind of negotiation!  It was the first time we really thought about getting an apartment or hotel room as it would have cost almost the same amount.  We did check out an alternative campsite on the other side of the Island and this was offered to us for free but alas on inspection the buildings were overgrown, abandoned and still awaiting water to be switched on with the electricity following in a few weeks, the season hadn't begun this side of the island!  We were beginning to struggle with the rising temperatures and huge amounts of mosquitoes.  Not having any mosquito nets we had to choose between getting bitten or staying cool and leaving the doors open.  We also played a new game each evening - 'splat the mozzie' which entailed leaping around the van with the fly swat and rolled up newspapers and collecting a piles of mosquito carcases! 

Sailing to Skiathos

The campsite was a short cycle to the beach, supposedly one of Greece's finest.  It was lovely - long and beautifully sandy, backed by a pine forest.  It had all the water sports facilities you could wish for and when we first arrived it was almost empty.  The children loved the sand and began digging sandcastles in earnest.  We then went for a swim to cool off.  While we were swimming, unnoticed by us, a huge tourist boat arrived and the next thing we knew there were literally hundreds of people and the beach and sea were heaving.   The day after we arrived we went back to the main town to meet 'Anma and Carol who were getting the boat to Skiathos to catch their plane home.  We met them for breakfast in the harbour and all piled in the van to take them to the airport.  It was a sad farewell at the airport and it made us realise that we were now also heading home ourselves.  Skopelos was the furthest east we had planned to travel and we were now on the journey back westwards. We decided to stick it out at the campsite as we didn't plan to stay in Skiathos for long as it was a bit too busy and developed for us - we had been too spoilt with empty beaches and campsites to ourselves for too long!  We discovered Banana beach which had a bit more of a relaxed and funky feel to it than Koukounaries.  It also had the added bonus of being west facing so had the most incredible sunsets. 

The boys got naked in unison with the other nudists further up the beach and enjoyed al fresco showering!  As the sun set they entertained the Greeks in the beach bar by shaking their booty to the pumping music and were rewarded with ice-cream and lots of attention. Not sure they would get the same response in London!   

As the temperatures rose daily we ended up spending hour after hour wallowing in the sea as it was the only way to keep cool.   Zach literally managed to stay in for about 5 hours one day and came out looking like a little prune!  We checked out the weather forecast and discovered that it was cooler on the islands to the west of Greece so decided it was time to move on.  Also if we left now we would have a chance of meeting up with Steve's aunt and uncle who were in Lefkas where they have a sailing boat.  We headed to the port to book a ferry and were put on a reserve list for later that day.  While we awaited news of whether we could leave we took the time to explore the inland.  We found some incredible roads up high above the town.  We got a great view of the airport and its frighteningly short runway.  Apparently the baggage needs careful loading here to ensure the planes can take off safely - we felt very smug in the van at the thought of that!  Even the landing lights start way out to sea as the planes almost touch the top of your head as they land on the outskirts of Skiathos town.  We also took a nose at the Monastery and some fabulous panoramic views before we eventually returned to the port and finally got confirmation that there was room on the ferry for us.

 

Queuing for the ferry

We arrived back in Volos and drove to Sikia Camping where we had stayed a few weeks previously.  This was the first time we had returned anywhere and it felt quite strange but also easy and comforting to be in familiar surroundings.  We found a pitch quite close to the sea and after a fabulous meal in the campsite restaurant we settled down for the night. 

Strangest Experience
The runway at the airport was only separated from the road by a flimsy wire fence.  On this fence was a tatty sign asking cars not to drive on a short section of road when planes are coming in to land!  Have they not heard of anti-terrorism precautions!!!   

Top three things
Sand
Banana beach
Dirt tracks up into the hills

Other pictures we liked this week 

Sunset at Banana Beach

Entertaining all the children on the ferry!

 
11 June to 21 June
 
Pelion and Skopelos
 
We continued to enjoy the remoteness of Kastri until it was time to head off to Skopelos to meet up with 'Anma (Kate's Mum).  Even though we could see Skopelos in the distance there were no ferries from where we were so we had to drive back to Volos.  We boarded the ferry and Louis immediately befriended an elderly Greek couple who fed him crisps and biscuits the entire journey.  The boat stopped off in Skiathos and the scene before us as we stood watching form the deck was incredible.  We were all transfixed as people, goods and vehicles were hurriedly rushed on and off the Ferry as the Customs officials screeched their whistles at the traffic to keep them moving.  Zach exclaimed "its just like 'what people do all day?'", referring to the Richard Scarry books the boys have enjoyed reading all holiday.  Zach was remarkably bang on with his description and we all looked on until the doors were closed and the Ferry headed off once more this time to Skopelos and 'Anma waiting on the quayside.  
 

Driving down to Glysteri Beach

It was great to see 'Anma and her friend Carol.  They have visited Skopelos on a number of occasions so were able to introduce us to some fabulous restaurants, bars, beaches and best of all their friends the Cosma Family.  Sula Cosma, family matriarch, insisted that we park our van next to their taverna on Glysteri beach and camp free of charge.   So our camper van is stationed pretty much on "their" beach, half of it in truth is owned by the Monks who stay way up high in the Monastery.  We have only to stagger a few yards for bacon and eggs in the morning, stuffed peppers, fresh fish, salads so fresh and beautifully herbed each lunchtime and piping hot Skopelos pie, a sweet and creamy filled pastry dusted with icing sugar and fresh fruit delivered to the van most evenings. 
 

Sula's Restaurant

Child care is shared by all including the "YaYa and Papoose" of the restaurant - some of the best greek food on the island being served here.  This is an incredible place to stay, the mornings begin often and strangely with the sound of Microsoft Windows on the PC pumping through the restaurant's sound system, soon followed by Greek Music.  Louis and Steve are usually up first and Louis heads immediately to entertain the family around the breakfast table.  After several cups of thick, black coffee, the days work in the restaurant then commences, from cleaning the beach to preparing the tables and Kitchen.  The family work tirelessly late into the night sometimes with only a handful of customers, the season has yet to begin and the restaurant is vast and includes a museum full of family and Greek history about the Glisteri Beach.  This had once been the ship and boat building port from which some pretty impressive ships were built. It did not take Zach long to find his own evidence of the past climbing on the rocks getting his feet into some sticky tar.  As we slowly slipped into to Greek life on Glisteri beach we began to admire the Cosmas family, in truth we began to feel a little guilty to be watching everything unfold, there was so much to be done and yet nothing was too much trouble.  In the evening the family would drive huge tanks of water from the town on the back of their trucks not just for the restaurant but so the tourists could have showers on the beach.  Sula and her husband Georgeo make a formidable team and to think this all began from Sula selling ice creams on the beach to the tourists.  Even Vangelis her son runs a boat daily from the town to ensure even those without transport can enjoy the environment and the fantastic food and fresh fish that is created in the kitchen.  It  must  have taken a lot ingenuity and hard toil and we told even a little luck, as some of the restaurant was made from timbers washed up and carried up on to the beach, after a shipwreck.  
 

Sula with Louis and Co.

We visited other beaches on the island which were stony but almost deserted and the incredibly green sea was always inviting.  We even bumped into Louis's adoptive grandparents from the ferry who were so excited to see him again and with Carol translating we could even have a conversation with them.  Skopelos town is beautiful - situated on a hill rising up from the small port it is made up of lots of narrow streets with really interesting shops and pretty houses.  We even managed a bit of night out without the boys and went to a bar overlooking the whole town and the harbor.

Skopelos Town at night
 
We took a glass bottom boat on a day trip to Alonnisos with the promise of dolphins.  The dolphins never materialized and there was little to see out of the glass bottom but Alonisos was beautiful.  So close to Skopelos but with a very different character, it seemed more remote with less people and development.  It was very green and looked quite manicured.  We had fresh fish in a little taverna on the harbor and visited some stunning beaches before heading home.
 

Zach in Alonnisos

The temperature rose every day and there was little to do in the heat of the afternoon but dip in and out of the sea or collapse in the shade.  The children hardly complained about the heat they just adored even more swimming and were happy to read stories or watch a film in the afternoons.  When we weren't swimming or relaxing we ate and ate!  Skopelos is famed for it's food and as we had no rent to pay so we treated ourselves to some fabulous meals out.  

Keeping cool - Stories in the van with 'Anma
 
Vangelis took us out on his boat and we got to see the lushness of the island from the sea. There are a lot of similarities with Cornwall, the Island has some very dramatic coves, caves and beaches including one of the most spectacular we have seen at Limonari. The people have a certain pride about their Island and are very protective and rightly so, they recently turned down EU funding for an airport, claiming they did not want their Island "going the same way as Skiathos."  
 

A trip on Vangelis's boat

Toward the end of our stay it seemed we might never leave and we might have considered residency with Sula and the Cosmas family if we could be sure we could keep up with them, but we had planned to see Skiathos and draw our own conclusions about this neighboring Island, we said a sad farewell to the Cosmas family and waved goodbye to 'Anma and Carole at the port as we headed off as the advance landing party, we had planned to meet them again the next day and take them to the airport.
 

Leaving Skopelos

Strangest experience
 
Hearing strange clomping noises at 5 in the morning outside the awning, it sounded like there were four of five of them, bandits, thieves, pirates, Steve had been reading too many of the kids books however Kate thoughts drifted to thinking it was robbers in flip flops but she didn't bother to check it out.  When we finally put our heads out of the campervan we saw goats that had climbed down from the hills in search of food, how fantastic and wild!!!
 
Top 3 things
Greek hospitality
The beaches and beautiful sea
Skopelos cuisine
 
Stats
Total miles 4,111

Other pictures we liked

The stunning sea

Zach and 'Anma

Another beach!

Louis and 'Anma

4 June to 11 June

And so to Greece - Pelion

We awoke to heavy rain and strong winds and decided that it was time to go in search of some sun. We packed up and by midday we were heading for the port of Messina and the Ferry from Sicily back to mainland Italy. We knew there was an overnight ferry to Patras, Greece at 8pm from Bari - the other side of Italy, a 7 1/2 hour journey according to our sat nav. We decided to give it a go although it was a mammoth challenge for us all.

We took the ferry from Sicily to Italy and hit the motorway without delay. Steve kept a close eye on his speed and the estimated time of arrival on the satellite navigation and attempted to knock off the minutes to ensure we could arrive in good time. It was probably the most spectacular drive we have done so far. We passed the coastline up from the heel of Italy along the west coast, then crossed the ankle through the mountains towards the east coast. We had panoramic views of the hills dropping off to the sea in the distance. We finally found some sunshine about mid afternoon. The children were amazing, through the power of DVD's, namely Peter Pan (thanks Nan Nan), snacks, milk and some naps along the way they did incredibly well. We eventually arrived in Bari at 6.45pm having knocked 45 minutes off the the Sat Nav time and with the very real possibility that within less than 24 hours we could have left Sicily and arrived in Greece.

Kate ran to the booking desk and if we boarded immediately we could have a cabin, we were too late to camp on board as campervans needed to arrive three hours before, but we didn't care as we were going to have beds again!! The ship was once again fantastic, the lift was so plush Zach thought it was our bedroom! We made full use of the children's play room - the boys have sussed that big boats have play areas and it was the first thing we had to go in search of.

The next morning we docked in Patras and prepared for the mad dash off, as had been the custom on every Ferry. As soon as we drove off the boat we instantly felt that we were in a different country. The landscape was much more earthy and there were vast areas of untouched coastline. In the midst of this there was the most spectacular suspension bridge taking us from Patras on the Peloponnese into central Greece. We were now heading for the Pelion Peninsula near Volos for some chill out time.

It was another fabulous drive although quite slow and by the time we reached Volos and started to look for a campsite it was late afternoon and we could go no further. By chance we found a perfect spot, Sikia Camping, right by the sea in the village of Kato Gatzea. We had a great meal in the campsite taverna which was practically on the beach and dropped into bed. Just check out your atlas to see how far we had travelled in 2 days! Zach obviously found it exhausting - he slept for over 14 hours!

The beach at Sikia Campsite

Sikia Camping was really well equipped with a Hotel, restaurant and internet access on our door step - alas no ability to upload our blog. We joined a larger than usual crowd of Austrians, Germans and one UK couple in VW camper spending three months here! It was not what we were used to but an indication that high season was on its way. Once again there were lots of other children on the campsite who Zach and Louis could play with on the beach which was great for all the parents.

View along the beach to Kato Gatzea

After a few days of a busy campsite and once we had recovered from our journey to Greece we felt the urge to explore and so headed south to check out the rest of the southern part of Pelion. We eventually found Kastri Beach Camping just above Platanias on the south-eastern tip of the peninsula. We loved its remote location and the sign advertising it - "Kastri Camping Opposite Skiathos". It was so peaceful with only two other campervans and one tent. We bagged ourselves another perfect beach pitch and even had the beach shower right by our campervan, perfect for our grubby little boys.

Our pitch at Kastri

The location was so idyllic. The beach was great for swimming and Steve pumped up the Kayaks once more so we all got nautical again. Steve blagged a boat trip for the whole family from a very friendly German whose motor boat he had helped to launch. It was lovely to see the coastline and check out some incredible villas hidden away. At night the stars were amazing, it was almost a joy to get up in the night to go to the toilet!

Steve and Louis enjoying the sea at Kastri

We spent some afternoons in Volos which we really grew to like. It had a wealth of shops, pretty squares and street cafes and a grid like road structure which made getting about a breeze. Parking was the only headache and in some places only for the brave as in desperation every inch of space was utilised. We were finally able to get the van washed and hoovered which, in the heat, was great fun for the 5 lads doing it, fighting each other with jet hoses as they worked away at two months plus of filth. It was even more fun for Kate and the boys on the inside who were thoroughly entertained whilst having their lunch. While we were in Volos we booked our next ferry to Skopelos, a four and a half hour journey away, to join 'Anma next week who was having a holiday there.

Our first impressions of Pelion was that it appeared to be a relatively untouched part of Greece and in many respects it still is. With its Mountain range up to 1600 metres and dense forest it is ideal for trekking but we had also discovered secrets nestled between its coves. Harbours connected to Villas and pathways to secluded beaches, another playground for the rich and adventurous but all in all a very beautiful and untouristy place, certainly worthy of another visit.

This weeks top four
Sikia home-made olive oil
Kastri Beach Camping
Volos street chic
A clean campervan!

Stats: Total miles 3,966

Strangest experience
Travelling so far in such a short space of time.

Other pictures we liked this week

Louis swimming

Watching boats go by at Kastri

Milk time!

Zach just hanging out!

Zach off kayaking

Louis on the 'stone' having a very serious chat with 'Anma!

Zach - milk and i-pod time!

25 May to 4 June

Sicily

The campsite in Cefalu was a real find. It was great to be able to see so much sea and sky from our pitch and we made full use of the swimming pools which we often had to ourselves. The small swimming pool was fabulous for the children, both of whom were confident enough to jump in from the sides without being caught.

Cefalu itself, just a ten minute drive down the coast, it's an enchanting town. Perched beneath a enormous rock face, its buildings and streets spill down from the spectacular Duomo directly onto the harbour and shore. The long, sandy beach was fantastic. Lined, in the Italian way, with row upon row of sun loungers and a few very relaxing beach bars. It was a lovely place to meander about and with the sea so close it was perfect for the children to go for a big run when window shopping got a bit too boring!

On our second day in Cefalu Louis turned two. He didn't really take much notice of his birthday until after his afternoon nap when he demanded "presents", "cake" and "candles". We had promised to take him to a toy shop to choose a present and then go in search of some cake so we set off into Cefalu. We found an amazing little toy shop and went in search of something small enough that we could pack away into the van. Louis, however, had some very grand designs in mind and as for Zach you can imagine his delight and the hours he could have lost in this small shop. Zach was unsurprisingly very sure of what Louis would like however we managed to settle for some animals and a tree house in a bizarre scene with these environment rescuers equipped with a variety of cameras, a first aid kit and bandages for the Orang-utan!! It's obviously very popular in Italy as there was shelves and shelves devoted to various scenes from this programme. We then found a lovely little restaurant overlooking the harbour to have a bowl of spaghetti to celebrate.

Sunset from the restaurant on Louis's Birthday

We ended the evening in a bar by the beach where we ordered a chocolate cake that turned out to have marmalade stuffed inside, we put candles in and sang "happy birthday." Louis was delighted and we had to re-light the candles several times. The cake turned out to be as disgusting as it sounded but Louis was certainly impressed.

Happy Birthday Louis!

The day after Louis's birthday we met up with Andrew who had arrived for a holiday. It was so great to see him and the boys loved having him around. Our days and evenings here were very different as Andrew had joined us, or we had joined him, and his encouragement to explore the local restaurants was something we could not refuse.

Uncle Andrew

We had a stunning meal at the foot of the Duomo where we ordered a "big fish" as the waiter described it. We waited hours for it to be cooked by which time the children had fallen asleep and missed dinner. When it arrived the waiter could hardly carry the platter. He dissected it for us and dished up huge pieces of fresh fish. It was really delicious and we had a lovely evening. We were however shocked when the bill arrived to see that the fish alone cost about a week's camping bill!

Cefalu Duomo

As the time progressed the weather turned more and more unpredictable culminating in stormy, wild, wet and windy conditions. There were incredible storms at night where we could see the lightening strike out over the sea and then the thunder would shake the campervan. During the day on the beach the lifeguards screeched their whistles at anyone who ventured more than three metres into the sea. Fortunately we could enjoy the swimming pool and we did go to the beach where Zach managed to get some fun out of the body board again.

The beach at the campsite

Campsite life was a bit more family orientated here as many Germans schools were on holiday, which meant Zach and Louis had lots of playmates. They became part of a gang of boys who would all zoom about the site on their bikes and scooters or sharing their stash of toys with parents keeping a watchful eye. Every so often it would be someone's mealtime or bedtime and parents would be chasing about trying to reclaim their unwilling children who would be happy to play all night. As people came and left the campsite we would often end up with different children popping up and joining us with their toys, a proper travelling playgroup. What was most impressive as we watched Zach and Louis was the way they chatted to each other children oblivious that they spoke a different language and remarkably they all seemed to understand each other.

The campsite playgroup!

Steve and Zach managed a very windy cycle ride into Cefalu. Red flags again adorned every part of the beach and in tandem they battled their way along the shore line and of course rewarded themselves with yet more ice creams on arrival. Unfortunately most of the ice cream was lost to the floor as the sun melted them quicker than you could lick and the wind blew what was left straight off the cones.

From Cefalu we travelled across Sicily to Toamina on the East coast to spend yet more time on another superb pitch, virtually on the beach. We did have to laugh at the name of the site however - Paradise International! We enjoyed a few days on the beach in the sun before the storms set in again. The rain finally encouraged us to take a trip into town. Taomina is stunning, perched within the cliffs all traffic is banned so it is the perfect place to take a wander. Despite the rain we had a lovely meander through the town and a fabulous meal although occasional drips of rain escaped through our shield of sun umbrellas.

We also took a nose at Andrew's posh hotel which was something out of a 60's James Bond movie, complete with underground cavernous walkways both to the pool and the beach. The slumleys certainly saw what they had been missing, not to mention the satellite TV, mini bar, en suite bedroom with walk in wardrobe and clean sheets!!! What a room, still decorated in 60's style and space enough for four campervans, luxury!! The boys had their first bath in weeks which they loved and thought it was hilarious to chase around the room naked except for bubbles.

The name's blonde!

The weather really began to deteriorate and the prospect of a sunny day seemed further and further away, it was the daily campsite chat with our neighbours and we had to postpone any thoughts of a trip to the top of mount Etna at some 3000 metres for a another holiday. We instead went of Syracuse, which was where we spent our first ever holiday together in 1989 the year we became, "Kate and Steve"!!! The old town was about all we could remember and it was lovely to see the harbour and enjoy lunch along the terrace with the boys.

Syracuse harbour

On our return from Syracuse we were met by some sunshine and Andrew waiting for us on the campsite beach in a speedboat he had hired for the afternoon. We spent a fabulous evening zooming up and down the coast. The kids thought is was brilliant and at the end of the evening Louis didn't want us to give the boat back to the rental man! Actually I don't think any of us really wanted to give it back! Kayaking just won't be the same again!!

Zach driving the speedboat

Sicily Top Three
Big Fish
Little Brother
Speedboats and the jet set lifestyle, just a taste!!

Stats:
Total miles travelled 2,004 time spent on the road, so chilled out now we are this far South it doesn't seem that important besides Louis has been getting his paws on the steering wheel and cleared the vehicles computer.

Strangest experience

Having lunch in Syracuse, 18 years on, with two little boys, what a journeys we've had together and to be sharing them now with Zach and Louis!!

Other pictures we liked this week

The stormy sea at Cefalu

Stormy weather

Louis

Zach

Louis

Andrew and the boys on the beach at Cefalu

Andrew and Louis aboard the speedboat

Coming into the harbour

21 May to 25 May

Amalfi Coast, Pompeii and the boat from Naples to Palermo

The trip along the Amalfi coast was truly breathtaking. The scenery was incredible, towns and villages clinging for dear life to the towering rock faces which make up the coastline and crystal blue waters below. The road itself was however terrifying. Heart stopping hair pin bends, narrow twisting roads where only two vehicles could pass if one was hugging the side of the road. We had numerous near misses with all manner of vehicles we met, all clambering for space along the roads, that literally, in some places appeared to have been stuck on the edge of the rocks. Around most bends we would find ourselves navigating by mirror in order to see if it was clear to proceed or if we were to be confronted by a huge tourist bus, scrapping its way along the coast. (We later found out that large Campervans, unlike ours, are not allowed along these roads and we can certainly see why, it would been hell to keep bumping into those as well). It was an amazing experience but we were in search of somewhere a little more relaxing to stay so we decided to head as far along the coast as possible.

The Amalfi coast road

We ended up at Camping Nettuno, almost at the end of nowhere in the small fishing village of Marina Del Cantone. There was a small beach backed by a few bars and restaurants. The place was really sleepy and had a real charm about it. As well as having a diving centre you could also go on boat trips to the Island of Capri and to Amalfi itself however we stuck to terra firma and drove into to Sorrento for the day, just half an hour away. Like most of the town in the area, Sorrento is built into the cliffs. We meandered through the town along some beautiful cobbled streets which wound their way down to the port. We met bundles of tourists mostly lost and mostly American.

Sorrento

We had some nice beachy days on the rocks and shingle beach near the campsite and walked to the local village for dinner one evening. Our next consideration was how to get to Sicily where we were meeting up with Andrew who was going to be on holiday there. We could drive down along the foot of Italy or take a boat to Catania from Naples. We decided to go to Pompeii first as it was only an hour away and see how our day panned out.

Zach and Louis in Pompeii

The ruins of Pompeii were remarkable. We picked up a guide book which had fabulous overlays which helped us explain to Zach and Louis how Pompeii had looked before the volcano erupted. They spent most the time fascinated by the first page which showed the volcano in the background erupting and the people running, in horror, for their lives. Despite the hoards of tourists, the vastness of the ancient town accommodated us all. It was amazing to walk along streets made from the original stones the Romans laid. It is possible to see how houses were configured and even who lived in them. The ceramics, such as jugs and urns, which have survived look so familiar it really is possible to imagine how people lived here. The most horrifying display was of plastercasts moulded from where people died. You can see the despair in the way their bodies are positioned. The whole town dominated by the shadow of mount Vesuvius which is visible from every part of Pompeii - a constant reminder. We couldn't help wondering why Naples has been built in such a precarious location under the volcano as Pompeii is such a horrific reminder of the power and destruction of it. Scientists say it is a question of 'when' not 'if' Vesuvius will erupt again.

Reading the Pompeii guide book

We walked for over three hours through Pompeii before we headed back to our campervan. Louis shouted "volcano coming" and Zach shouting "run" all the way back to the car park. With thunder rumbling in the distance it wasn't all that funny! It certainly speeded up the process of keeping us all together and getting out, and clearly amused those we passed by. We got back to the van just before the heavens opened.

Vesuvius at dusk

We decided to take our chances and turn up at Naples Port to see if we could find a boat to Sicily. We were greeted by a bustling, pushy city as we forced our way through the traffic to get to the port. The place was heaving with people and we had to be on our guard as beggars and sales people tried to get us to part with our money, legitimately or otherwise!! It was a shock to be somewhere so utterly chaotic, where people were so unhelpful and angry - every ticket booth seemed to have people shouting and screaming at each other.

After what felt like hours we established that we couldn't get a boat to the Aolian Islands, which are close to Sicily and we would have liked to have seen, as it was the wrong day. We then tried to get a boat to Catania but they were all full which left the last cabin to Palermo. We snapped it up and rushed to the ship with little time to spare. The boys were so excited to be on a boat and to have to use a ladder to get into the top bunks. We were almost as excited to have a cabin with freshly made beds. We had dinner in the boat's restaurant before we set sail with the most incredible view of the sun setting over the bay of Naples and the ever present Vesuvius in the background.

The bay of Naples - our dining view

The ship had everything - swimming pool, casino, bars and restaurants, even a late night disco. Unfortunately we didn't bring our dancing gear and instead settled for the children's soft play area, milk and an early night!! We woke up to the stunning sunrise out of our cabin window. As we sailed into Palermo the cliffs glowed orangey-pink in the morning light. The ship docked at 6.30am and we carried, the still sleeping, children down to the campervan.

Approaching Palermo at sunrise

It was a mad dash off the boat and into Palermo and a bit of shock to find rush hour in full swing so early. We carved our way through Palermo and decided to head for Cefalu and by 8.00am all was calm and we were sat on the deserted beach basking in the morning sunshine. What a journey! We left in search of a good campsite and found one just outside Cefalu, with a perfect pitch right opposite a vast swimming pool and smaller children's pool overlooking the sea. It was as near perfect as we could find having already checked first with a trip up the coast with no better alternative.

Campsite in Cefalu

The beach at Cefalu

Top three things this week
The crazy Amalfi coast road
Sunset over the bay of Naples
Cabins on boats - the kids slept so well!

Stats
Distance travelled since UK: 2004 miles, plus a lot of nautical miles, distance from London, if you wanted to join us, the most direct route would mean covering 1,654 miles which would take 26 hours and 5 minutes , without a break!! Time we've spent driving about, 61 hours 16 minutes and a lot of breaks.

Strangest Experiences
Watching the Champions League final, Liverpool v AC Milan with half a dozen Italians, a German and a Canadian, in the local bar/mini market, as people popped past by to pick up a bag of crisps from behind you or in front to select their vegetables, at least you could order a beer.

The ruins at Pompeii with their immense history of culture and creativity, yet a strong feeling of loss and tragedy beneath the ominous backdrop of Mount Vesuvius.

Other photos we liked this week

Zach in Sorrento

Up Pompeii!

Kate and Louis in Pompeii

Our cabin on the boat to Palermo

14 May to 21 May

Elba and Rome

We've been on Elba for a week in total. Mostly we just enjoyed the local beach but did manage to tear ourselves away a couple of times to explore other parts of the Island. We discovered some spectacular hill-top views and amazing towns and castles perched up high with stunning panoramic views of the coastline with mainland Italy hazy in the distance.

Evening view from the van

We spent an afternoon in the local town of Porto Azzuro. It was a beautiful little place with cobbled streets, alleyways and window boxes bursting with geraniums crammed into every available space outside every house and restaurant. It was a great place to meander, popping into back-street delis to buy fresh bread, fruit and cheese and browsing the chic boutiques. It was also the perfect place for another ice cream which we ate overlooking the harbour watching the super snazzy yachts hang out.

Views across Elba

Finally it was time to move on. Our next destination was Trevignano on the shores of Lago di Bracciano, about 50 minutes outside Rome. We came here to visit Kate's cousin, Emma and her husband Stef, who has been living in Italy for the last five years and have two beautiful girls similar ages to Zach and Louis. As we headed towards Rome it was really fascinating how the landscape changed. Coming off the motorway and on to smaller roads, we passed ruins that gave us a strong sense of Roman history. We were also amazed at the surrounding fields which were shockingly red with millions of poppies. We had a fabulous time with Emma, Stef, and the girls and we also managed to catch up with Kates Aunt and Uncle on the last day of their holiday. Zach and Louis really enjoyed the company of English speaking children but also the array of new toys and a safe garden to run-around in.

Children playing with Mummy's cousin's children - what does that make them?!

We had found another fantastic camping location right by the lake and nestled ourselves under some amazing trees that lined it. They spilled out pollen like candyfloss and the ground was thick with, what felt like fluffy cotton wool. The children might have thought they were in heaven and could have been walking on clouds except that Zach was sure it was bubbles. After a few days however the stuff was getting blown everywhere - up our noses was particularly unpleasant - and we were far less enthusiastic.

Louis lakeside

We took a drive around the lake. It really is a very beautiful place. As we visited one of the lake's beaches one afternoon we came across numerous diving classes, up and down the beach which Zach and Louis found extremely exciting as one of the books we have with us is about Dougal the Deep Sea Diver. It was easy to see how the lake plays host to some pretty swanky people. The Castle Odescalchi above it in the town of Bracciano. hosted Tom & Katie's (Cruise) wedding and next month Will Smith is due to renew his vows there after ten years of marriage. Apparently the local Italians were less than impressed with the celebrity lockdown last time and are equally less impressed by the forthcoming event. Alas we have to pass on being around for such a joyous occasion as we are off to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii and Naples. Sorry Will!

Top three things this week
Elba
Soft play area for the children on the Ferry from Elba to the mainland. We don't think they even noticed they were on a boat!
Lake life

Distance travelled since UK: 1322 miles, plus some nautical miles, via the ferry
Time spent driving about (total): 36 hours 54 minutes

Strangest Experience
English company and the children playing and talking as if we were all back at home enjoying summer in England - warm, blue skys and sunshine!!! (or not as the case may be!)

Other pictures we like this week

Bronzed Goddess with kids in van!

Louis and Zach sharing an ice cream

Zach listening to the i-pod

Zach and nature!

Mummy relaxing

Deep discussions about ants

Cycling around the campsite

Boys on the lake

6 May - 13 May 2007

Pisa and Elba

This week quickly ran into the next as we found ourselves staying in Laigueglia for a total of five nights. We soon realised that this is one of those places you could so easily get stuck, which would have been perfect had we not planned such a big trip. It was also hard to resist blowing our budget in beachside cafes and bars which all looked so inviting for a coffee, fresh juice, ice cream or beer depending on the time of day. So it was time to stop swanning about and head further south.

We packed up our gear and in no time hit the road again for for Pisa. Having had most of the other campsites to ourselves for the past two weeks we arrived at the Pisa site to discover a mass of campervans/caravans and occupants of all nationalities, shapes and sizes. The site was really close to the leaning tower so we took to our bikes for a family cycle ride into Pisa. The inviting cycle path running outside our campsite turned into manic roads after about 30 metres. Having fought our way through the chaotic traffic we turned off the road towards the tower and were faced with a sea of tourists. We thought we were travelling out of season and it would be a quiet affair but oh no, there they all were, in their droves. It was such hard work on the bikes we had to lock them to the nearest railings and go by foot.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa

The crowds, the tourist tat stalls, the touts selling knock off sunglasses nor the police on huge motorcycles sending them fleeing could distract anyone from the amazing sight of the leaning tower which was truly captivating against the back drop of blue sky. It is just so mesmerising in the piercing bright sunshine illuminating the white stone of the tower and surrounding buildings. Zach was just so amazed that someone could make such a cock-up building something as simple as a tower! Later that evening he drew a picture of it in our scrapbook and when asked what it was he said "it's the leaning tower but I drew it straight"!

Pisa

We went back the following day to climb the tower but children had to be over 8 years old and looking at the size of the gaps between the railings at the top this was actually a bit of a relief! Instead we took a lovely walk around the pretty streets and down to the the river. While there are some other tourist attractions, you can imagine it would be such a sleepy little place if it wasn't for the tower. We stumbled upon a fantastic park for the kids which had an amazing half submerged climbing frame of a ship which they loved. Reflecting on past experiences this made us consider how our travelling and cultural experiences of a country have changed so significantly. Perhaps we should just concentrate on touring children's parks across the world! In many respects we have already started.

After just a couple of nights in Pisa it was time to set off again. Luckily we all thoroughly enjoy beaches so after a flick through the Lonely Planet, and on a bit of a whim, we headed for the island of Elba. The boats leave from the port of Piombino about an hour and twenty minutes away avoiding the highwaymen - toll roads, from Pisa. From there we took a boat to Portaferraio, in Elba. Thanks to a huge soft play area for children on the boat, it was a very relaxing journey.

The island has a population of 30,000, and is located between Corsica and mainland Italy. Napoleon was exiled here in 1814 for a time before he met his Waterloo. This Island is a real gem, fabulous beaches, coves and mountains, we cannot believe we had never considered it as a destination before. Driving around the island is amazing, across the lush fields there are views of the sea in every direction making you loose all sense of your bearings. The roadsides are bursting with poppies and other wild flowers.

After a good look around we finally settled in the most idyllic spot overlooking a small bay and headland in the distance. All our wishes have been granted in this one spot. The sunsets are amazing making writing this all the more pleasurable especially with a bottle of Nastro Azzuro or glass of Gin and tonic, for the ladies, Kate's off the white wine and now on the hard stuff!! Our camp site is really beautiful with tall pine trees and birds that sing us to sleep as well as the morning chorus. In fact they just don't shut up, it so surreal, could it be piped bird song? We might be able to disconnect the speakers!

Sunset across our local beach

We are literally a hop, skip and a jump from the beach, we know this because Zach does it every day and an extra few kilometres up the beach and back if the mood takes him. Being so close makes the whole transition from camp to beach nearly seamless as we to and fro throughout the day as the children's and our needs dictate. As we are so close to the waters edge it felt like the ideal time to pump up the Kayaks and head for open water. Zach and Louis could not wait to jump aboard with Steve for the maiden voyage. As the three of them paddled around the bay the peace and tranquillity was divine. The boys lapped up the experience and listened intently to the waves lashing the boat. Unfortunately it wasn't long before pirate songs rang across the bay and renditions of 'row, row your boat' shattered the air, much to the bemusement of the local Italians! Luckily Zach loves wearing his life jacket and when questioned why he liked it so much he said "because it keeps your clothes dry". The next day was rougher and the boat went over twice sending him headfirst into the water!

Kate and Louis Kayaking

Two days in and beach life is really suiting us. We're even considering not moving for the next three months! As well as the beach there is a playground just a few metres from the campervan which Louis frequently takes himself off to. Also close by is a great restaurant which also has internet access so we have been able to get the blog underway as well as catch-up on e-mail. It also serves up fantastic food, not to mention the well stocked bar, shame we forgot to pack baby sitters!

Uploading the blog in our local internet cafe with Zach supervising!

Tonight the children craved hot cross buns and asked for them in chorus to Steve, so he nipped across to the restaurant and bought them the nearest thing he could find, apple strudel. It went down perfectly and so did the children, out like a light and not a peep until 8.00 am, magic!! Our days are pretty much filled with castle making, watching the many kite and wind surfers, sailing boats and rowing our Kayak around the headland to some caves, just so Zach can check for pirates and treasure. We even had a day of surf action with Zach hurtling beach bound, on a body board (or buggy board, as Zach calls it). With a helpful shove from Steve just at the crest of each wave, he can really get up some speed. His face as he headed for Kate and Louis was a grinning from ear to ear as he gripped on hard to try and stay on. He did have the occasional wipe out but in true surfer style he just wanted to get back on and even stand on the board if he could. "Not just yet eh son". It has been a fantastic week, the Italian charm has certainly wooed us and the people here could not have been more helpful or welcoming.

Top three things this week:
Island/beach Life
Kayaks
'lami (Salami) - as requested by ex-vegetarian Louis!

Distance travelled since UK: 1281 miles